When a dear friend invites you to spend a week at a beautiful villa in the Tuscany countryside to celebrate her 75th birthday, what do you say? Heck yeah! It so happened I had already made plans to travel to Italy around the same time. When you are traveling solo, any time you can connect with folks from back home becomes priceless. Regardless of whether you are invited to celebrate someone’s birthday, Tuscany should be on your bucket list. Here is my Tuscan tale among many more on a journey of friendship, exploration and laughter….

But First a Bit of History

Tuscany, once inhabited by the Etruscans and ruled by Rome is a treasure trove of art, architecture, vineyards, cascading hills and cypress trees. Lovely, picturesque towns with medieval towers, cobblestone streets and well-preserved Gothic and Romanesque architecture. The Etruscan civilization existed from around the 8th century BCE until the rise of the Roman Empire. After the fall of the Roman Empire, cities like Florence, Siena and Pisa became major commerce and artistic centers controlled by powerful competing noble families (now I know why there are so many castles). This eventually led to the birth of the Renaissance movement. Florence became its birthplace thanks to the talents of Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Botticelli and the Medici family wealth. It wasn’t until 1861 that Tuscany along with other states formed the unification of Italy as a kingdom. By 1946, the monarchy was abolished which led to the rise and fall of Benito Mussolini’s fascism during World War II.

 The Villa of IL Vecchio Mulino

After two weeks in Rome, I hopped on a train to the city of Arezzo, a 2 1/2-hour ride. There, Alice and Bob picked me up for a 35-minute drive deep into the Tuscany countryside to the Villa of Il Vecchio Mulino near the small village of Anghiari, 10 minutes away. The villa was once an old mill converted into a charming 4-bedroom country house surrounded by acres of farmland, cypress trees and rolling mountains. In fact, the villa is a couple of miles from the closest home. A place where you must have a car since Ubers and cabs will not come this far. I know Alice and Bob for over 25+ years, having worked together in Richmond, VA. This birthday trip was a two weeks venture with family first and then friends. We were joined by two of Bob’s college buddies and their partners. Seven of us making the best of a week of feasting.

So, What Did We Do?

First, let me share a bit of what makes this place so special. It is renowned for its picturesque landscapes. When driving, you will come across vineyards, olive groves, magnificent cypress trees and rolling hills. In April, the place is just beginning to bloom. The summer must be quite spectacular. Second, Tuscany is the home place of medieval towns and villages. It feels as if you are entering history (if we could only time travel). You are inspired by the architecture and heritage of these towns and villages that have purposely resisted modernization. Lastly, the culture here is so different from what we experience in the USA. Most businesses honor the siesta, every day from 1-4 pm, a time to relax and tend to family needs (try doing that in the US). Its wines and gastronomy are outstanding (and affordable) using fresh ingredients from the local farmland and vineyards. A lifestyle most enviable, especially as we age.

   We visited three medieval villages, small and quaint. They are Anghiari, Montepulciano and Sansepolcro. These are pedestrian communities that limit the use of cars. Some of the corridor streets are a bit elevated. They have enchanting narrow alleyways where you find medieval houses, churches, charming restaurants, and museums. Most days we visited the towns of Anghiari and Sansepolcro for lunch and/or dinner, exploring everything about their cultural heritage and way of life. I don’t think there was a meal that disappointed. I particularly loved the décor and ambiance of many of the restaurants selected. None were fancy or expensive looking. Instead, you felt like you were in someone’s home surrounded by shelves of bottle of wines, Italian cookware and art. Probably, one of the few places where the average bottle of wine is between $25-50. Menus listed appetizers, then pasta as the first meal, followed by a second meal and dessert. We shared everything we order, and no one was counting calories.

We also went to the village of Montepulciano, known for its wine and vineyards. There we attended a wine tasting of one of the oldest wineries with a remarkable history of its wine cellar. This village is located up in the hills and has endless panoramic views of the Tuscan valley. We also visited museums in each of these communities and many of their ancient well-preserved churches. Since we were there during the week of Easter, several of the crew got to attend mass(I wasn’t one of them). We also spent some time at the local outdoor marketplace in search of fresh ingredients to cook a meal together. We also pitched in and recruited a chef to teach us how to make pasta from scratch, dandelion fritters, and a vegetable dish. Best part of each day was capping the night with more wine and talk next to a roaring fireplace.

Before we knew it, the week was up. We managed a day of rain and enjoyed a beautiful sunset. Some of us were going to Rome. The others and myself to the city of Florence. A collection of great memories as we said goodbye and went our separate ways with much gratitude. Thank you, Alice and Bob.

My photos start with the villa and offer photos from Anghiari, Sansepolcro and Montepulciano, including views of the Tuscan valley. They also show the comaraderie we shared while enjoying the region’s great food and Tuscan wines.

As always, remember to click the center of the photo to see a full view of each photograph.

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